Manual for army horseshoers 1917

The foot axis may be drawn on the hoof wall in chalk. These two axes should be in prolongation or appear to be one straignt line no matter what the natural pastern conformation figs. But if the two axes do not appear as one straight line there will be a break at the coronet. This is a proof that the foot is not level and that the horse is not standing correctly. The dotted lines in the figures show the amount to be trimmed off.

Standing at the side, the shoer should notice the height of the foot, the length of the toe, and the slope of the line of the toe; that is, the front line of the hoof as seen from the side.

By careful sighting from the side, draw a chalk line between the second and third clinches, with exactly the same slope as the line of the toe.

This mark will generally have the same direction as the horn fibers. If so, trim off the surplus growth evenly. If not, the line will be broken at the coronet. The break at the coronet, however, is the sure guide. For the third examination the foot must be raised. The wear of the old shoe should be carefully noted as a check on the preceding two examinations. If the shoe has worn evenly, its position on the foot was undoubtedly correct.

If one side of the shoe shows more wear, a that side may have been fitted too closely; 6 there may be some fault in gait which should have been noted in the first examination; c the foot may not have been properly leveled in the last shoeing; rf the quarters, as frequently happens, may have grown unevenly since the last shoeing.. Horses with long, sloping pasterns wear the shoe more at the heel, while those with short, upright pasterns wear the shoe more at the toe.

There is a slight scuff at the moment of breaking over, which produces a normal wear at the toe, but overworked horses and those suffering from disease show more than this normal wear.

The clinches are cut off or straightened with the clinch cutter and hammer. The sharp edge of the clinch cutter is placed under the edge of the clinch and struck with the hammer until the clinch turns up flat against the wall or is broken off.

If even one clinch is left holding it may break off the portion of the wall to which it is fastened. Beginning at the heel, each side of the shoe is loosened with the pincers and, gradually working toward the toe, is separated from the hoof until all the nails are free except those at the toe.

The shoe is firmly grasped at the toe with the pincers and is pulled toward the center of the foot. If pried over the toe toward the outside of the foot, part of the hoof may be broken off. Any stubs of nails remaining m the foot must be removed. With the horse standing evenly on its feet, examine the foot and pastern axes to determine the necessary changes, if any, to be made besides the removal of the surplus growth of horn.

Then taking the knife in the right hand, back of the hand down, the blade coming out at the little finger, palm of the left hand supporting the wall of the hoof and the left thumb on the blade to assist in cutting and to prevent slipping, pare away the dead horn near the v:hite line until live horn is reached, being careful not to go farther back than the last nail hole.

The knife must never be used on the bars or the frog. The bars strengthen the hoof and assist in its expansion. Cutting, therefore, weakens them and prevents them from performing their function. Never use a knife on the hoof of a horse that has been running barefoot, nor on flat feet, either natural or diseased. Ragged parts of the frog may be cut away by careful use of the nippers.

In removing surplus growth of horn it is safer to lower the toe first, for, if the heels be lowered and, later, it is found that a cor- responding amount of horn can not be cut from the toe, it will be impossible to put the foot at the proper angle without the use of heel calks or a thickened web at the heels.

Taking the nippers in both hands so that the handles are per- pendicular to the plane of the bearing surface, begin at the last nail hole and cut until the white line shows plainly and live horn has almost been reached; start with a thin cut or bite and gradually increase the depth of bite to the point of the toe; continue along the opposite wall to the last nail hole on that side, gradually diminishing the bite.

Heavy horses with wide feet and horses raised on soft, marshy pastures usually have flat feet. The natural flat foot, although particularly liable to bruises of the sole, must be classed as a sound foot and must be distinguished from one that is flat as a result of disease.

The preceding figures clearly explain this case, which must. Grasp the rasp with the right hand, the left hand near the far end, left palm resting on the upper surface to act as a guide. Place the coarse side of the rasp against the ground surface of the wall on the right half of the foot, ancl with long, even strokes, smooth off the foot where it has been cut with the nippers. Then work on the buttress and bring it to the same level as the quarter and toe, removing such horn as may be necessary and no more.

Beginners usually bear too strongly with the right hand and remove more with the hind part of the rasp than with the front part. Avoid this fault. Frequent tests should be made to avoid removing too much of the horn. For this purpose, take the foot in both hands and press with the thumbs near the white line; if the sole yields ever so slightly no more horn should be rasped away or lameness will result. Work carefully and slowly on the flat foot, which has a thinner sole than the cup-shaped foot.

For the left half of the foot reverse the hands on the rasp and pro- ceed as above. This half will be found more difficult at first on account of the awkward position, and as a result the work will often be slighted.

Experience with beginners shows that the right- handed man leaves the left half too high four times out of five. To determine the level of the foot, the shoer raises the foot to a position for sighting over the bearing or ground surface; let the foot hang naturally and do not press against it with the thumb, as this is apt to disturb the pastern and foot axes and make the foot appear level when it is not; sight over each side separately, from the but- tress to the toe, and note any irregularities which may appear in these two surfaces; now continue the plane of the quarter and heel, on one side across or through the horny frog to the opposite side of the foot, for the purpose of determining whether or not the two sides are in the same plane.

This may be done with the eye by drawing an imaginary line, or by placing the smooth surface of the rasp on a level with the bearing surface of the foot, as indicated by the line e—f. To determine the level of this plane, draw an imaginary verti- cal line through the cleft of the frog, as shown by the line c—d.

Both sides may be in the same plane and the foot not level. In such a case the plane is canted. The line e—f represents a canted plane, and it will be noted that it does not form right angles with the vertical line c—d. The true or level plane will be found at the line a—b, which line forms a perfect right angle with the line c—d. Place the foot on the ground and examine it from all sides and note carefully the following: Does the foot stand at the prescribed angle; are the quarters equal in height; is the foot either broken out or broken in?

If any of these conditions is not correct, the necessary changes should now be made. When the leveling of the foot is completed, observe whether the sole is level with the wall at the inner angle of the buttress; if it is, remove a thin plate of horn, not over an eighth of an inch thick, with the knife, being careful not to cut the walls or bars. This is to prevent pressure on the sole, which might result in corns at this point.

Plate XVI shows the appearance of a foot before and after preparation. This is the near forefoot of a field artillery wheel horse, and was selected on account of the clearly defined bars.

It is to be observed that in leveling the bottom of this foot, it being a case of flat foot, the rasp trims off the sole inside of the proper weight- bearing surface. The shoe should bear upon the latter surface only.

When horses are in constant use, it is necessary to prevent the too rapid wear of the hoof. The modern shoe, beyond all ques- tion, is the best means to accomplish this result, although it seri- ously interferes with the natural contraction and expansion of the foot. When shoes are left on the feet for too great a length of time, corns and other ailments result. Ordinarily a shoe should be re- newed once a month.

The heavier the shoe, the greater the labor of the horse. Hence, except in special cases, the lightest shoe that will last about four weeks is the best shoe. The shoe should care- fully follow the form of the foot.

If the foot is broken, the shoe follows the original shape of the foot. The upper and lower sur- faces of the shoe should be wider at the toe than at the heels. At the toe the width should be about twice the thickness of the wall of the hoof at that point.

Appearance after old shoe is removed. The foot ready for the new shoe. The ground surface of the shoe should be level. That portion of the upper surface which presses against the bearing surface of the foot must be level, smooth, and accurately shaped to support it, and when the upper shoe surface is wider than the bearing surface the inner edge must be concaved to avoid excessive sole pressure. This is one of the most important requisites of correct horseshoeing.

Care must be taken only to concave enough to remove sole pressure. Do not leave too much space between the shoe and sole, for this allows small pebbles, grit, and dirt to collect, which allows sole pressure at small points, which is very harmful.

Concussion of the sole against the inner edge of the upper shoe surface invariably produces soreness. The outer edge of the upper surface should be slightly rounded. This adds to the appearance, produces a better fitting shoe, and to a marked degree prevents cutting if the horse travels close.

The width of the crease of the shoe should be uniform, and its depth about two-thirds of the thickness of the shoe. The crease makes the shoe lighter in proportion to its width and is an aid to prevent slipping. Nail holes should be punched to fall over the outer edge of the white line.

Clips are semicircular ears drawn upward from the outer edge of the shoe to prevent its slipping. A clip extends above the upper surface a distance equal to the thickness of the shoe, or sometimes farther on hind shoes. When leather is interposed between the shoe and the bearing surface, the clip must be correspondingly raised. Toe and side clips assist the nails in holding the shoe in place. By a normal shoe is meant a shoe for a sound foot of a horse with proper gaits.

The service shoe Pl. XVII, fig. In the mounted service four sizes of machine-made shoes are issued. It will be noted that the heels are much longer than neces- sary, but they are manufactured in this manner so that the extra length can be used in turning heel calks or-in making a bar shoe.

It often happens that a larger size is required for the front. Three other shoes belong to this class: The calked shoe fig. Its use must be confined 1. The service shoe. Calked shoe. Snow shoe. Plate XVII.

Permanent con- traction of the heels, and even sidebones, result from the constant use of this shoe. Sharpened calks, for use on ice, are even more to be avoided on account of injuries caused by interfering and by kicking. The plate fig. The snow shoe fig.

The figure shows a shoe turned from the issue shoe. Selecting the shoe. To do this it is necessary for the beginner to place it on the foot and note the position of the nail holes, being careful not to take a shoe in which the last nail hole will be in the rear of the bend of the quarter. Take the lightest shoe of the desired size that may be available. Now examine the pritchel, and if it is not of the proper shape point it.

See Tools. The successive steps in fitting the service shoe should always be taken up in the following order: 1. Draw the toe clip. Make the necessary changes in the toe. Concave the shoe. Open the nail holes. Shape the quarters. Cool and make the first trial for fit; at this time make the seat for the clip. Make any change in outline.

Draw the heels. Cut off the heels. Finish the heels. Go over concaving and level the shoe. Drawing the toe clip. The one with the round- edged end to the head of the hammer, is shown in the following cuts. For the fitting hammer, with spherical peen, see Plate I, paragraph 1. Having procured a shoe of the desired size and having noted the general changes to be made in its shape, especially at the toe, place the toe of the shoe in the fire, ground web down.

Hold the right hand low and with strokes toward you along the face of the anvil, using the heel of the face of the hammer, draw out the toe clip, bringing the heels closer to the anvil as the clip is drawn. Be careful that the clip is in the center of the shoe. The clip, when finished, should be a little higher than the thickness of th e shoe.

To open the toe of a large shoe where the horn of the anvil is too small for the usual method, hold the shoe as shown in paragraph 19, but pull the quarter on the side opposite you firmly against the horn.

Then strike on that quarter near the toe, bringing the hammer toward you and keeping up the pull on the tongs. The other side is opened in a similar manner after reversing the shoe. This method is frequently used in fitting the very large shoes required for horses of siege-gun batteries, etc. In the service shoes it will not be necessary to use the countersink for nail holes, because the crease is wide enough to take the nailhead. For the first work the shoe may be placed any- where on the face of the anvil, because the sendee shoe is thick enough to prevent any chance of spoiling the point of the pritchel; but for the last work the pritchel or hardy hole must be utilized, as previously explained.

The toe clip generally makes it difficult or impossible to place the nail hole nearest the toe over the pritchel or hardy hole. For these nail holes shift the shoe to the nearest end of the face of the anvil and hold the nail hole slightly outside of the edge.

It will generally be found that the work up to this stage can be done with the heat remaining from that required for the toe clip. Beginners, however, may find it necessary to reheat the shoe in order to open the toe. In tliis case, place the shoe in the fire with the clip up, to avoid burning it. Cool the shoe and apply it to the foot. In order to secure a neat fit at the toe it is necessary to make a seat for the clip, which other- wise will stand out its full thickness. Now is the time to prepare this seat.

Place the shoe in position with the clip accurately centered, and, using the knife, scratch a small mark on the edge of the wall at each end of the clip. Put the shoe aside and carefully whittle away the edge of the wall between the two marks. Work slowly and test frequently by replacing the shoe, so that you will cut away just what is necessary and no more. Now make the first trial of the fit.

If the toe is correct, note where either of the sides needs reshaping. The quarters will usually be found too full, and if so must be heated and shaped over the horn by the method explained in the plate shoe, except that the shoe is slightly turned so that blows will fall on the edge of the upper surface in order to avoid closing the crease.

The outline of the finished shoe must exactly follow the outer edge of the hoof to the last nail hole, and gradually widen from that point so that about an eighth of an inch of the upper surface will show at the end of the heel. If, however, a foot is found to have a portion of the wall broken off when the animal is brought to the shop, the shoe must be fitted so as to follow the original outline of the wall.

If the toe has been broken, the shoe is fitted as just explained, but, of course, there are no nail holes to act as a guide. The toe clip is omitted and side clips are used if necessary. The bearing surface of the shoe, upon which rest the wall, the white line, and not more than an eighth of an inch of the sole, must be level, fit exactly to the hoof without any air space , and extend back even with the bulb of the frog.

At the heels there should be no concaving, but the sharp inside edge should be slightly rounded. The width of the heels of all finished shoes must conform to the width of the buttress.

In shoeing a foot with a very wide buttress it is often unnecessary to draw the heels at all, but in most cases they must be drawn as explained in the plate shoe. Remember that the bearing surface of the shoe must cover the buttress and you then have a guide for the width of the drawn heels. In the issue shoe, the outer edge is beveled as far back as the end of the crease, but is square from that point to the end of the heels. In finishing the shoe, bevel the square part also. The service shoe, as previously explained, is issued with heels sufficiently long to permit its conversion into a calked shoe.

To turn in a heel calk. Remove the shoe from the fire with the tongs holding it near the toe; place the shoe at any convenient part of the face of the anvil with the ground surface down, a half to three-quarters of an inch of the heel projecting over the heel of the anvil. Strike on the part of the heel projecting over the edge and turn it at a right angle to the shoe.

The height of the heel calk should correspond to that of the toe calk. The calk is squared by working on the face of the anvil; place one side on the face and strike on the upper side. To weld on the toe calk. Heat the toe of the shoe to a white heat and, placing it on the face of the anvil with the ground surface up, hold the calk with the tongs across the toe and far enough back so as to allow for turning the toe clip. Strike a few light blows to drive the nib into the shoe until the calk and shoe are touching.

Return the shoe to the fire, calk up, and tilt or rock the shoe forward and back to insure equal heating of both shoe and calk. When the proper heat—fluxing— see Heats has been obtained, place the shoe on the face of the anvil as before and strike a few light blows on the calk.

Reheat to the welding heat and place the calk on tl? Strike a few heavier blows on the upper surface of the shoe directly over the calk. For use on ice the calks are sharpened, but a horse so shod must never be turned loose with other horses. The use of the calk shoe is prohibited except at times when local conditions make its use absolutely necessary to prevent slipping. The nails issued in the mounted service are machine-made, and the sizes in general use are Nos.

One side of the shank of the nail is flat; the other side is concave and also has a bevel near the point. This bevel, as it enters into the horn, forces the point of the nail in the direction of the other side flat side. Therefore always hold the nail with the flat side toward the outside edge of the shoe.

By driving nails into the wall of the foot some of the horn tubes are destroyed, and the higher the nails are driven the greater the injury to the wall. Nails should, therefore, come out at a height just sufficient to hold the shoe—not exceeding one inch—and in order to damage the wall as little as possible, both the size and the number of the nails should be as small as will accomplish this object.

The outside of the white line is the correct place to start the nails, and shoes should be fitted with this end in view. Nails thus started come out evenly on the wall, are low, and at a strong angle. To the experienced shoer the feel and the sound of the nail and the amount of force required in driving are important guides. All nails going properly must be driven with con- siderable force. A nail driven with slight resistance, i. Nail heads must be sunk in the crease until they are flush with the ground surface of the shoe.

If this is not done, the heads may project unevenly and throw the foot off the level. They will also wear quickly and cause a loose shoe. The shoe is placed upon the bearing surface of the foot and held firmly in position with the left hand, back up. A nail is placed between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, the fiat side faced outzcard, and the thumb and the fingers are then extended along the right side of the shoe until the nail is held squarely in the center of the most convenient nail hole, usually the third the third hole on the left side for a left-handed man ; with a toe clip on the shoe the second nail hole is generally used.

The nail head is tapped lightly with the driving hammer. The nail should be held firmly to determine the feel, and the thumb and forefinger should not be removed until the nail, going soundly, needs no further guidance. The shoe is then grasped more firmly and the nail is driven with slightly increased force. The fingers, placed on the wall of the foot, determine the exact location at which the nail emerges. With the claw of the hammer the point of the nail is then bent upward until it stands at a right angle to the wall.

Next, the head of the hammer is grasped in the hand and the claw is pushed firmly downward, clutching the nail point. A half turn downward and a slight pull wrings the point off close to the wall, leaving enough nail to form the clinch. In wringing off nails the hammer is held in the hand nearest the nail point.

As the first nail when driven may cause the shoe to shift, it is essential to place it exactly in the center of the nail hole. If the shoe has altered its position on the foot a pressure on the opposite side of the shoe by the palm of the hand and a few light blows of the hammer on the lower border of the wall where the first nail is driven will move the shoe back to place.

The second nail should be driven on the side opposite to the first nail. When these two nails have been driven the foot should be allowed to rest upon the floor, and the foot and shoe should be care- fully examined from all sides. Is the position of the nails correct? Is the foot axis correct? Does the shoe fit properly?

Is its length correct? Does the horse stand evenly upon the ground surface of the shoe? The shoer should not resume his task until he is satisfied in all particulars. If any irregularities exist this is the time for correction. When the shoe has been properly set drive the remain- ing nails, the fourth nails on either side being driven first.

As each is driven the point is promptly wrung off. When all the nails have been driven the heads are forcibly hammered well into the crease, securing the shoe evenly upon the foot.

The clinching block is then placed under a nail point. When the driving hammer strikes the nail on the head the nail point is turned upward and the clinch is formed. After all the clinches have been formed the foot is brought forward upon the knees.

XII, fig 3, for front foot, and accompa- nying figure for hind foot. With the rasp the clinches are made of equal length, being in length about the width of the nail at this point. The end of the nail is brought to a thin edge by filing off the corner on the underneath side and thus forming a snort bevel which ,assists in making the clinch smooth with the wall.

A slight groove is made in the wall under each clinch. It is well to clinch the inside of the foot first, thus removing danger of the up- turned clinches tearing the opposite leg. Finally, the smooth side of the rasp is run lightly over each clinch to take off the rough edges that would pick up bedding or other material.

Much filing of the clinches weakens them and results in a cast shoe. When finished the clinch should be a trifle longer than the width of the nail at the point where it comes out of the wall. The outside wall of the foot is never rasped par.

The toe clip should be hammered back against the wall of the toe after the inside has been clinched on the off feet and the outside on the near feet.

In other words, hammer back the toe clip when 4he right arm is free. Plate XVI11 shows. The shoe, as may be seen, has been on for about three months, and the foot is broken back. The lack of symmetry at the heels shows that the shoe was probably not correctly fitted, and that it certainly was not in proper position when nailed on. The shoer, having learned to fit normal shoes, is prepared to take up the study of shoeing to correct faults in gaits and shoeing as an aid in the treatment of diseased feet.

The horses shod during the day should be ready for inspec- tion at afternoon stables, or other convenient time, in the shop or stable, with their feet cleaned. The horse should be examined on a level floor, as otherwise it is impossible to determine whether he is standing correctly or not.

The following examination should be made while the foot is on the ground:. Note particularly whether the wall has been rasped to fit the shoe. Is it of sufficient strength, height, properly finished and seated?

Have any old nail stubs been left in the wall? Are they well turned and set in? Are they smoothed off and not rasped sufficiently to weaken them? The foot should then be raised and the examination continued in the following manner: a The shoe. The last nail hole not farther back than the bend of the quarter?

Has too much been removed? Is the foot level? Xo sole pressure at any point? Are they the correct size? Are they all of the same size? Is their length even with the bulb of the frog? In cases where animals have been shod with calk shoes the fol- lowing should also be noted: a Toe calk. Are they properly turned and finished?

After becoming accustomed to making the daily inspecticn, the time necessary should not exceed five minutes for each horse. There are cer- tain important principles which, properly applied, will be of material assistance in gaiting the majority of horses.

Shoeing alone will not always accomplish the desired end, but it always helps. To shoe a horse so that he will be properly balanced and will travel squarely requires skill, patience, and careful use of special shoes. Where weight is used, it is always best to start with a small amount of weight and gradually increase it until the deured result is accom- plished; otherwise injuries may result from overtaxed, strained, or ruptured ligaments.

When all four feet have been shod, the animal is taken out and again examined on level ground at a walk, trot, and gallop. The horseshoer must bear in mind that seldom will shoeing alone produce the desired gait or action, but that much depends on proper riding and on the physical condition of the horse.

In all cases of shoeing to prevent injury to a leg or foot by another, if, with careful riding, moderate correction methods in shoeing do not accomplish the desired results, shoe normally and use boots to protect parts liable to injury. The use of boots or bandages will render blows of one foot against another foot or leg painless, give the horse confidence, and if the blows are mild, with the use of boots they will only slightly affect his gait.

The gaits in the Army are the walk, the trot, and the gallop. At the walk the horse lifts one foot at a time, in diagonal sequence, as, left front foot followed by right hind foot, and plants them in the same order. The trot is a diagonal movement, in which two feet leave the ground and again strike the ground at the same time, as, the left front foot and the right hind foot.

If the horse shows a tendency to single foot, the toe-v eight shoe in front Pl. XX, fig. The tee weight increases the length of the stride and gives a long, reaching swing to the front feet.

After the horse trots steadily the toe weight may be gradually decreased and finally abandoned. The gallop is a gait in which the horse springs into the air from one front foot and has all four feet off the ground at once. The diagonal hind foot is the first to strike the ground, then the other hind foot, next the front foot opposite the one from which the spring was made, and last the foot used for the spring. Animals that are so frequently used at the gallop as Army horses should carry as light a shoe as practicable.

The pace is a lateral movement—that is to say, a movement in which two feet on the same side leave and strike the ground at the same time. If a horse shows a tendency to pace, it is often of benefit to shoe the front feet with a medium-weight shoe, well rolled at the toe, or a roller-motion shoe Pl. XIX, fig. A confirmed pacer can very rarely be converted to the trot by shoeing alone, it being generally necessary to use hobbles, uniting diagonally a front leg and a hind leg.

The pacer should have no place in the service, but, if present, should be shod with a normal shoe. The single-foot is an irregular gait in which the front feet move in the order of a slow trot and the hind feet at a fast walk.

Each foot strikes the ground singly. The action of the front. To convert a single-footer into a trotter, Use heavy toe-weight shoes in front and ride the horse with a loose rein and an easy bit up a gentle slope. It is found in practice that this plan distracts his attention and allows the weighted shoes to produce the effect intended. Whenever the horse returns to the single-foot, he should be brought down to the walk and started again with the grasp on the ear.

This method may sometimes be found of use, but, like the pacer, the single-foot horse should have no place in the service. When a horse has been shod to improve his gait, he should be ridden with the snaffle bit, which admits of greater freedom of movement. The reins should be held with a light hand, and the horse should be forced up against the bit by the use of the legs.

It is a well-established rule in shoeing that, in order to cor- rect faults in gaits, the shoer should proceed gradually from one extreme to the other. Forging, or clicking, is a fault in gait at the trot, the toe of the hind foot overtaking and striking the bottom of the forefoot.

Leg weariness, a condition caused by debility or overexertion. Improper preparation or shoeing that tends to slow the action of the front feet, as feet with toe too long or heels too low; shoes too long or too heavy.

Preparation or shoeing that tends to increase the action of the hind feet, as feet with toes too Short or heels too high; shoes with heel calks and no toe calk.

Rough ground and poor horsemanship; the reins held too loosely, the horse not be- ing kept up to the bit. Three methods for the correction of forging are given. The first method is a mild corrective treatment, while the third is adopted only as a last resort. First or mild method. The heels of the hind feet should be lowered and the toes left a trifle long. The front shoes should be light in weight; the heels of the shoe fitted short so as to just cover the but- Plate XIX.

The hind shoes should be a trifle heavier than the front shoes, and the heels left a trifle long. In order to prevent the noise made by the striking of shoe on shoe, should the feet occasionally meet in action, the hind shoe should be squared at the toe and fitted so that about three- quarters of the wall at the toe projects over the shoe. Second or medium method. Use a fairly heavy toe-weight shoe Pl. The effect of the toe weight is to in- crease the forward extension of the feet with low action; the side weight and trailer on the hind feet induce an outward swing of the foot and leg, thus giving the front feet more time for breaking over and getting out of the way.

Third or extreme method. The front shoe Pl. The hind shoe Pl. The calks on the front shoe raise the heels, thus diminishing the distance which they must be lifted by the flexor tendons, and con- sequently cause more rapid breaking over. The toe calk on the hind shoe raises the toe, thus increasing the distance the heels must be lifted by the flexor tendons, and consequently delays the breaking over of the foot.

The long heels also increase the labor of the tendons by their extra weight. By using this method the feet are thrown so far out of their natural position that the ligaments and tendons are apt to be seriously affected in time by the heavy stiain placed upon them.

The horse stumbles in breaking over, or just after breaking over, as a result of not raising and carrying a foot high enough to clear the ground. Horses stumble more frequently with the front than with the hind feet. Weakness: During convalescence from severe sickness or as the result of a strain of a leg muscle. Improper preparation: Toe left too long. Laziness, particularly when going down hill, rough ground, and poor horsemanship.

This shoe induces more rapid breaking over. The full roller-motion shoe Pl. In cases of stumbling where calks are necessary to prevent slipping, use heel calks and short quarter calks welded on web of shoe between first and second nail holes.

A horse interferes strikes' when he is in motion by striking any part of a limb with the opposite corresponding foot.

Since this fault leaves evidence by rubbing off the hair and even breaking the skin, it is an easy matter to determine whether one or both feet need correction. Horses with good conformation and straight, upright limbs will not interfere if properly shod. Those that toe out generally strike, because the clearance space between the limbs is reduced, while those that toe in usually travel wide: Straight-limbed horses with narrow chests also have a tendency to interfere.

In order to correct interfering, the shoer should study carefully the shoeing, the conformation, and the gait of the horse. The first step is to de- termine the exact part of. This may be readily learned by chalking the inside of the wall and trotting the animal slowly. The chalk will be rubbed off from the exact point of con- tact with the opposite leg.

Mounted Service School. Author : Cavalry School U. Author : F. This work was reproduced from the original artifact, and remains as true to the original work as possible. Therefore, you will see the original copyright references, library stamps as most of these works have been housed in our most important libraries around the world , and other notations in the work. This work is in the public domain in the United States of America, and possibly other nations. Manual for army horseshoers, Page 29 BHL Manual for army horseshoers, Page 30 BHL Manual for army horseshoers, Page 31 BHL Manual for army horseshoers, Page 32 BHL Manual for army horseshoers, Page 34 BHL Manual for army horseshoers, Page 36 BHL Manual for army horseshoers, Page 37 BHL Manual for army horseshoers, Page 38 BHL Manual for army horseshoers, Page 40 BHL Manual for army horseshoers, Page 46 BHL Manual for army horseshoers, Page 49 BHL